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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I had several leaks in the transmission cooler lines that rusted and whenI just grabbed the lines and twisted a bit they basically fell apart. I cut them off about a foot before the trans and about a foot before the cooler, not thinking I didn’t take note or pay attention to the way they were in. How do I find out which is the out and which is the in? There is also a bypass valve that is a square box the lines pass through is that really needed? I want to run rubber line where I can I already got new connectors with clips for trans side but don’t want to hook them up in the reverse order. Can anyone help me with a diagram or routing info for the lines? I have the truck up in the air and not sure what to do
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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29,326 Posts
What trany? If you are not sure, what engine?
The bypass is needed. It stays closed(bypass mode) till the trany gets to operating temp. Then it opens and lets fluid to the cooler. Definitely needed in winter for proper trany function.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It’s the 3.7 and the more research I do the more confused I get... some say yea it needs to stay, others say no it can go and haven’t seen much of a temperature difference or haven’t noticed anything change or shift any different. The transmission lines are 3 parts..1 from cooler to rubber hose... 2 rubber hose to metal line into this square box bypass and out of bypass right into transmission fittings. The reason I want to know is all these lines are expensive! I see where a lot of people are cutting the metal lines a few inches from trans and few inches from the cooler then run rubber hose from one to the other and secure with a flair end and hose clamps. That will obviously eliminate the bypass block and go directly from trans to cooler and back. I’m not saying I just want to rig it up or do what’s easy and cheap, I will order the 3 lines and do it the proper way but I just don’t have the money right now (or can find these lines cheaper out there lookin around) I’m lookin for more advice or a better way of doing this.. being my only vehicle I can’t be without it and need to get by for a few weeks maybe a month tops before I’ll have the money to spend (kids are expensive) I can do it with the rubber lines for now. local auto parts stores have the high pressure hose and fittings that work, according to other places and posts around even few videos but nothing mentioned about the bypass or problems eliminating it even temporarily... I’m hoping for some input or if others have ever come across this before and what the outcome was..
I am going to post pics of the lines and this bypass block I’m referring to and not get confusing...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
#2 cut cooler lines leaving a few inches and same on trans side cut leaving few inches.
#5 the bypass?
Slide the rubber hose over the metal lines left on the cooler side and same on transmission side and clamp.
#5 eliminating the bypass block and run the lines direct..

38346
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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29,326 Posts
Yes, #3 and #5 in the pics are the bypass.
Also if you look at the first diagram you can see which hose goes from the trany to where on the cooler. So if you connect them the same, in and out direction is correct.
Yes as a temp fix you can remove the bypass. But you may get an error, and/or go into limp mode.
Anything Pre 07 will not have the same computers as the Nitro. So depending on the year, the info out on the net may not be correct for the Nitro. Not all 3.7 and 42REL are =.
A better temp fix would to cut the lines on either side of the bypass and put it in the line.
Just be sure to remember the orientation with respect to what is up/down, hose to hose...
 
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