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Share your experience with your Automatic Transmission


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I was now at the dealership. It was definitely a good idea. I thank you for your advice. They found there are things that are important.

They found too code p0440 and p0846 and transmission cooler/lines its weird because I fixed before four a days in the garage.

So they told me I need to fix this:
Solenoid pack
Trans pan is leaking
Trans cooler is leaking
Evap leaks
One missing wheel stud front wheel.

I have to fix very soon and I hoping it gonna be okey as soon as possible. I need to drive this a car. I bought this a car and I could not try so far.

Thank again guys for help.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Glad to hear you are on your way to getting it fixed.
 

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Maybe you right guys. I made an appointment and going into dealer for today.
I'm glad you took it in. Mine started leaking and I had to have the transmission cooler replaced. They told me to only drive short distances and no road trips until it was repaired. I had the benefit of being able to park it until the part came in. I probably could have had it fixed cheaper through my go to mechanic, but I had the Dodge dealer install it and was $850. Drives great now and no problems, but its only been 2 days.:)
 

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This the best way as find your issues with car. I bought before three days rebuild transmission with 35k on it. Right now they working on it. It will be tomorrow all done. I hope then it's gonna be Okey. At Dealership told me my transmission cooler is still leaking but i fixed and get new transmission cooler before two days. That's very weird. I'm now waiting on new transmission and then i'll see. The guy in garage told that they did very bad job on it. I'll see tomorrow. I'm glad your car is Okey. Dealership is best way for ours car.
 

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I have a 2011 heat 3.7 42 rle. pretty sure the leak is coming from the lines that run into the cooler.. but I'm wondering if the coolers go out or the orings on the lines wear out?? I don't want to buy the lines and have the same problem or if I should just buy the cooler itself vice versa.. Thank in advance
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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I have a 2011 heat 3.7 42 rle. pretty sure the leak is coming from the lines that run into the cooler.. but I'm wondering if the coolers go out or the orings on the lines wear out?? I don't want to buy the lines and have the same problem or if I should just buy the cooler itself vice versa.. Thank in advance
Welcome to the forum Mcarter1989. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

It really depends on where the leak is. In most cases it has been a pin hole in the actual lines.
But, are you sure it is trany fluid leaking, and not power steering fluid?
 

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Welcome to the forum Mcarter1989. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

It really depends on where the leak is. In most cases it has been a pin hole in the actual lines.
But, are you sure it is trany fluid leaking, and not power steering fluid?
Yes I'm positive and I'm really thinking that it's the rubber boots/orings that go into the block of the transmission cooler/ac condensor that come on the lines
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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There have been some members here who had the T cooler connection separate from the rad part.
By 3 in this drawing.
 

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There have been some members here who had the T cooler connection separate from the rad part.
By 3 in this drawing.
Was this due to the seals/orings failing? I'm going to get them for a couple bucks a piece first because the lines and block look great
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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If I remember correctly it was the physical connection to the rad that would split.
But do the "O" rings first to see if that takes care of it. Lot less $ that way.
 

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Yes changed the rings and now it's slightly seeping from the tube of the oil cooler and the block.... The lines and everything look dry still after the oring replacement and tons of carb cleaner lol
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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The tube down the side is the A/C dryer. It collects /separates water that gets into the A/C system. You do not want to take it off unless you are replacing it and/or the A/C condenser. Which is the bottom 2/3 of the assembly. The top 1/3 is the trany cooler.
 

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Got her fixed up it was the factory cooler separating at the seam of the tube and replaced the a/c dryer as well seems to be good now thanks again scar0
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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You're welcome.
If you removed the dryer, you most likely will have to evacuate and charge the A/C system.
I can't remember off the top of my head if the dryer has a check valve to prevent the refrigerant from escaping. But I don't think so...
 
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