[HemiEd]

I have been cranking wrenches on autos for well over 50 years and this drivers side back control arm bolt is about to get the best of me.

Of course it doesn't help that our Nitro spend it's first seven years in the Chicago area, with salt etc.

I have the nut off but can't get the bolt to budge. There is not enough room to get any tools in there and it took the exact right combo within 1/4 inch of extensions just get the nut off.

Has anyone on here successfully changed their upper control arms? Any ideas?

I really don't want to mess with the antilock brake control manifold etc.

 

[Scar0]

Can you turn the flag bolt at all?
Take the grill off, battery and tray out. Take the TIPM loose from the bracket and roll it off to the side.Then use several extensions to reach the bolt from the front. Nut on the end of the bolt to save the threads, and drive it out.

 

[HemiEd]

Thank you, hadn't thought about taking the grill off, but did look for a spot to go through it with no luck.

. It turns out that bolt has seized inside the control arm bushing sleeve. Of course it would have to be that one, the other three are easy to get to and came out with no problem.

I did take the battery, tray, TIPM and the bracket all out and loose. Tied it up to the wiper arm pivot out of the way.

Fortunately I have a lift or this job would be impossible for this old man.

Is there a spot on this forum where taking the grill out is discussed ScarO?

 

[HemiEd]

I found a Youtube on the grill removal. ScarO I was able to get a small socket with the right extension hooked up to my air chizel and the bolt still wouldn't move.
I have been soaking it in penetrating oil all night, maybe with the grill removed it will break free.

 

[HemiEd]

Well that made no difference. You go in beside the A/C condenser and you are at probably a 30 degree angle. Beat on it all day

 

[Scar0]

Bummer!
Sorry I was out all day...
Last time I had mine off was when I installed my lift.
Do you have the steering knuckle popped loose? If so, you may be able to put pressure on the Arm to break the bolt loose. That is unless the bushing is free moving around the sleeve.

 

[HemiEd]

Bummer!
Sorry I was out all day...
Last time I had mine off was when I installed my lift.
Do you have the steering knuckle popped loose? If so, you may be able to put pressure on the Arm to break the bolt loose. That is unless the bushing is free moving around the sleeve.

I do not have the knuckle loose but have decided to cut it out with my plasma cutter. The bolt is totally frozen inside the sleeve. I cut the rubber away on the side of the bushing and I was glad to see the slot in the sleeve facing me.
I put a lot of penetrating oil on it, and hope it can be driven out today.
If not, I am going to start on it with the plasma.

 

[HemiEd]

Thought I would report back in. A week ago yesterday at 2:45 central time I got the bolt out and did the "Rocky dance." Almost four days on that bolt. Taking the grill out and driving it out was a big part of the solution though, thanks.

I cut the upper control arm off close to the bushing with a cut off wheel then the rest of the arm away from the bushing with my plasma cutter. Then heated the bushing repeatedly while soaking it in penetrating lube. What a battle!

Three hours later it was all back together and it drives better than I had hoped. Rides great.

While I was at it I replaced the radiator hoses and formed heater hoses along with new AF.

 

[Scar0]

What a royal pain!
Glad you got it done. Time to go wheeling now!

 

[NitroChemist]

Too late for a suggestion but may save someone else. If you can reach the bolt head, use an air hammer. No necessarily to cut it off, but to shake it loose. I did a control arm on a Liberty. So I know what to expect on my Nitro. I'm gathering parts to do the same job. Lower ball joint, upper arm, struts, and brakes all at the same time. Might add hubs too.

 

[HemiEd]

I tried the air hammer, thanks. Made up some fittings to work on it with weldeer and adapt to a long 3/8 extension even. The plasma cutter was the only solution I could come up with. It finally worked!
It was all worth it as we took it on a trip to Texas and it rode and drove better than when it was new.

 

[HemiEd]

I did the hubs late last fall and that was a good thing. I had been hearing a slight hum and the left front was really bad. Our Nitro spent it's first seven years in the Chicago area so there was lots of snow/salt, thus the hub and seized bolt on the upper control arm.

 

[Dekan5879]

I feel ur pain. 11 yrs of ny weather all bolts were rusted but that top driver side lol I think it took me 4 1/2 days. I swear the actual time for the lift without that issue would've been a day tops. Now I'm trying to find a replacement bolt and nut with no luck locally.

 

[HemiEd]

I feel ur pain. 11 yrs of ny weather all bolts were rusted but that top driver side lol I think it took me 4 1/2 days. I swear the actual time for the lift without that issue would've been a day tops. Now I'm trying to find a replacement bolt and nut with no luck locally.

I ordered them new from chrysler parts on line. Got here very quickly

 

[HemiEd]

I ordered them from MoparAmerica
Part Number 6507965AA

Part Name Upper Control Arm Bolt

Price

Quantity

Total

6507965AA

Upper Control Arm Bolt

$5.92

2

$11.84

Subtotal:

$11.84

Shipping (UPS Ground):

$14.61

Total:

$26.45

 

[NitroChemist]

Nice!! I think I'll do the same. Order them for spares or replacement. I'm collecting parts to do an entire front end rebuild.

 

[HemiEd]

Nice!! I think I'll do the same. Order them for spares or replacement. I'm collecting parts to do an entire front end rebuild.

I have been shocked how well our Nitro rides and drives now.

 

[djdadd10]

Thought I would report back in. A week ago yesterday at 2:45 central time I got the bolt out and did the "Rocky dance." Almost four days on that bolt. Taking the grill out and driving it out was a big part of the solution though, thanks.

I cut the upper control arm off close to the bushing with a cut off wheel then the rest of the arm away from the bushing with my plasma cutter. Then heated the bushing repeatedly while soaking it in penetrating lube. What a battle!

Three hours later it was all back together and it drives better than I had hoped. Rides great.

While I was at it I replaced the radiator hoses and formed heater hoses along with new AF.

I am in the same situation, I need to know what cuts to make and how the plasma cutter was used. I replaced my passenger side upper control arm yesterday no problems… and wanted to do the driver side. And now I’m stuck. Don’t wanna put everything back because of all that work. HELP!!!!

 

[Nitrogen]

i see you found this thread,
i wouldn't use a plasma cutter, the amount of red hot metal flying around would not be good, HemiEd cut the control arm off as near as possible to the bushing with an angle grinder, then gouged away at the rest of the control arm with his plasma, until he was left with the bolt and the inner bushing sleeve, then he heated up the bolt and sleeve hammered at them untill finally they seperated,
in the past when iv'e had a similar situation hitting the bolt as hard as possible back and forth from both sides, spraying with oil eventually works, and i'm pretty sure there is not alot of access, but thats all i got,

 

[DDKoloc]

Thought I would report back in. A week ago yesterday at 2:45 central time I got the bolt out and did the "Rocky dance." Almost four days on that bolt. Taking the grill out and driving it out was a big part of the solution though, thanks.

I cut the upper control arm off close to the bushing with a cut off wheel then the rest of the arm away from the bushing with my plasma cutter. Then heated the bushing repeatedly while soaking it in penetrating lube. What a battle!

Three hours later it was all back together and it drives better than I had hoped. Rides great.

While I was at it I replaced the radiator hoses and formed heater hoses along with new AF.

Congrats !!