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P0058 Fault - O2 Sensor Issue (bank 2, Sensor 2) - 3.7l V6

34K views 27 replies 4 participants last post by  RAAFHQ  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

For some reason I've been having an issue recently with my Nitro throwing a P0058 fault code with the description - "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2)"

Now this has happened after running E10 fuel (10% ethanol, approx. 94 octane) since the car was new (now has 18000kms since 2008) and switching to 95 octane fuel (no ethanol).

My Actron Autoscanner CP9680 has been extremely helpful in determining this fault with recommended fixes being the following (ranked 1 as highest):

1) Replace PCM
2) Replace O2 sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
3) Replace O2 sensor connector
4) Replace O2 sensor ground wire

Now I've done the following to try and fix the issue but my CEL keeps on turning back on. As I understand, Bank 2, Sensor 2 is the post-cat O2 sensor located on the driver's (right) side (RHD vehicle). The O2 sensors become slow to respond overtime and therefore activate the CEL as the heating element inside them no longer function (or a slow to heat up) - if this was true, the CEL will activate after approx. 35-40 secs from start up. My CEL, since the issue has always turned on within 5 secs of start up.

What I've replaced and tested:

Test: Disconnect Bank 2, Sensor 2 sensor connector to identify correct position (Check)

Replaced: Purchased genuine Mopar O2 sensor (NTK rebranded) as aftermarket equivalents such as Bosch do not work with the vehicle (slow to heat up).

After installation of the replacement O2 sensor and clearing the CEL, the vehicle was driven for 5mins (shopping) and the light did not activate. I started the vehicle after the shop (60mins) and drove home (5mins) and it also didn't activate. My next drive was 4 days later and this time the CEL activated 5secs after start up.

Now I don't think a new O2 sensor would fail and judging via visual inspection of the old one it was also in good condition (but I snipped the connector off to remove it!). I did some resistance/continuity checks using my multimeter to ensure they were in the specs and they were! my Autoscanner has the exact values which I'll dig up sometime.

Now I've also checked the wiring connectors from the PCM harness and they all seem to be in good condition - the vehicle hasn't been driven in the rain all of it's life nor has it been off road.

The only part I'm up to now is checking the ground wire which according to the FSM, uses a common grounding point labelled "G105" - all O2 sensors use this common ground. But the other 3 sensors have not triggered a fault (tested to by swapping them around), so my only assumption is that a possible grounding fault is before the 2/2 O2 sensor ground wire meets the central ground wire with the other 3 sensors.

I'm hoping that the PCM isn't the issue here as it could potentially be a very costly fix for such a low km vehicle.

I've been trying to chase the G105 grounding location and have yet to find it - the only ground wire I can see is a white strap in the centre of the engine on the firewall. Any help is much appreciated.

I've also read the following PDF for a similar issue on a Chrysler but still no luck unfortunately.

Tip:

When purchasing O2 sensors for the 3.7L and 4.0L engines, they use a common Mopar part number - 56029049AA these are rebranded NTK sensors (NTK is stamped on them), in Australia the same NTK part is under part number OZA571-C8 but is more expensive than the Mopar sensor from the dealership (AUD$137 vs AUD$155). The same NTK sensor can be purchased from Amazon in the US under part number 23159 for US$35 or approx. AUD$50.
 

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#2 ·
What year and what engine you you have? The 3.7 banks are opposite of the 4.0. What you posted above is correct for the 3.7.
Nitro specific DTC:
P0058 = Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 2, heater control - circuit high. Possible causes; Wiring short to positive, HO2S, ECM

BTW;
If you could please go to your personal-details and fill in the “Vehicle:” info about your rig, then it will be easier for us to answer your questions down the road, without us having to ask a bunch of questions.
Image

As you can see at the left of every post I make;
This is what I drive:
Vehicle: 07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
 
#3 ·
Hi Scar0,

It's an 08' 3.7L V6 SXT Export (Aus), I believe it's equivalent to a SLT in the US. I also just checked the TIPM to the J28 recall document here and I fall in that range as the TIPM ends in "AG".

The vehicle has never been serviced at the dealership except some warranty items such as handbrake, driver's side sun visor and a rubber grommet that was missing on the firewall. I do my own servicing using genuine Mopar Oil Filter and Castrol EDGE 5W-30.
 
#4 ·
G105 is located under the TIPM close to the C1 connector.
In the SM did you follow the procedures listed to trouble shoot this?
 
#5 ·
Pin out for the sensor.
1 BR/GY O2 2/2 HEATER CONTROL
2 BK GROUND
3 DB/DG O2 RETURN (DOWN)
4 BR O2 2/2 SIGNAL

The sensor heater element resistance should be between 2.0 and 30.0 ohms At 70° F (21.1° C) when measured across the heater control (Pin1) and the O2 heater ground (Pin2).
 
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#6 ·
Thanks for the speedy reply Scar0,

I don't think I have the proper SM - it's basically all in chapters under separate PDFs (screenshot attached).

I've also included a photo with possible locations for G105. I've done the continuity checks for the old sensor and new sensor - both in spec. Would you know the ground cable route for 2/2 O2 sensor? I recall it went over the gearbox.
 

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#7 ·
Hard to tell for sure which one it is looking at the SM.
I'd clean the one on the black post. It looks corroded.
 
#8 ·
When I replaced my clutch all I remember is it went behind the head over the trany at the firewall.
 
#10 ·
Your welcome.
The exposed wires may be the cause...
What was the resistance from Pin2 in the harness to a chassis ground? It should be below 5.0 ohms.
 
#11 ·
I took 3 readings with little to no fluctuations of around 1.6 ohms.

I might parking the car outside in the hot Sydney sun to "dry" the car if any moisture has entered (which I doubt) - it's always parked in a sealed garage anyway.

But do you think the change from E10 to 95 octane fuel would have an effect? I notice sometimes when I crank the car warm the starter tries to engage but I end up having to turn to off and it will start normal the 2nd time, every time. And some times the car will idle below 500RPM and stutter when moving extremely slowly out of a parking spot.

It's still on original plugs but I have a set of OEM plugs ready to go in case.
 
#12 ·
I would not think it would matter that much. E-10 (10% ethanol) is used in the states a lot.
I doubt it would have caused this fault.
The Owners manual recommends 87 Octane for the 3.7.
 
#13 ·
just be sure you have the correct sensor (check the harness wire colours ) just to make sure.
sometimes there are slight errors in the cheap service manuals.

if possible test all 4 of the 02 sensors, that would be my next step.

also change the plugs.

1.6 ohms is not within spec.
 
#14 ·
Plugs and fuel have nothing to do with it. This is heater control which heats the sensor up to start taking accurate readings. If resistance is within spec testing the O2 sensor jump the connector wires at the O2 sensor harness plug with the O2 unplugged and ohm out the wires at the pcm connector. Also ohm the wires to battery plus and vehicle ground to determine there is not a short in the wiring since unplugging everything should isolate the wires. I've only had to replace one pcm ever for that fault. 90% of the time it's a bad sensor 9% bad wiring 1% bad pcm
 
#15 ·
Hi guys,

Changed my plugs today - they were in good condition considering the low mileage but haven't fixed issue (I didn't expect it to). Filled the car with 25L of E10 (now 75% full tank) and the response is a lot better - no more extremely low idle/stuttering from a warm start.

Now I've given some more thought with the P0058 code - it states that "Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2 Bank 2 - heater voltage high"

Now I'm still on my original Mopar factory fitted battery and have been trickle charging the battery - would this potentially be the culprit? It's Easter downunder so I'll pop under the car tomorrow and see if the wiring is in good nick (I suspect it is) - if not, what are the chances of a brand new Mopar O2 sensor failing again?
 
#16 ·
Anything is possible. You could try moving the sensor to the other side and see if the error code follows it.
 
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#17 ·
An update!

So I ordered 3 extra NTK OEM Spec sensors as an impulse buy and to check if the replacement Mopar unit I had was faulty - turns out the Mopar unit was fine.

Now through sheer luck when unplugging the O2 sensor connector, I discovered that a nearby electrical connector had been broken due to the strain from the lack of wire length in the wiring harness. Now I did some work and through feel (it's a tight spot!) discovered that the O2 sensor connector (2/2) is part of this connection.

I applied some pressure to the cracked connector and the CEL was cleared but will be in contact with FCA Australia to have a chat. There's a design flaw where insufficient wire length has placed strain on this connector and overtime has stressed the plastic and cracked it.

Would anyone know the name of the part that is connected to this connector? Even better if they could find the technical name the electrical connector is called? I've been doing a search on the Mopar Connectors Repair website but no luck yet.

Location: RH side of the gearbox (42RLE)

Pics enclosed...
 

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#18 ·
That looks to be the ASSEMBLY-TRANSMISSION SOLENOID/PRESSURE SWITCH (RLE) - BROWN (POWERTRAIN) 10 WAY
Full Repair Kit: 05102405AA
The 2/2 sensor wires do not connect directly to this plug, but does enter the loom up stream of it.
 
#21 ·
Just an update - I had the dealership replace the broken connector out of good will. The connector originally snaps together from two halves and the locking part just broke from the stress over the years. Bad part - it didn't affect the wiring to the transmission solenoid nor the O2 wiring harness.

Now I've been advised by the dealership to go to an Auto Electrician but I know he'll do the same diagnosis with the O2 wiring. I'm fairly handy and did it quickly before but I'm just wondering if anyone knows the EXACT values and tests that I should be doing to fully eliminate that the wiring is the culprit? I know its a tight spot but the original O2 sensor I snipped off the connector and had some exposed wiring at the end, would it be advisable to plug this connector in and turn the car ON (but not start/engine running) for the O2 sensor circuit to be active?

The very last call is a new PCM - I'm just wondering if a 2nd hand unit can be reflashed? (dealer said no, but reading the web says otherwise?) Would anyone know the part number for a new PCM - I assume they aren't as unique as the TIPM where different vehicle options such as sunroofs etc... would matter.

Many thanks.
 
#22 ·
PCM are VIN specific. I have read that once programmed to a VIN it is very difficult to program them to a different VIN.
Caution:
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

This post/thread and any others related to modifying/repairing your Nitro in any way are here for informational purposes only.
It is your sole responsibility to verify the information is correct, accurate, and safe to use.
What you choose to do with the information is up to you.
If you are unsure, please consult a professional.

I assume the below is correct. I have not personally verified any of it...
See my previous posts for test 1-2
One test you can not DIY because you have to use a scan tool to actuate the Heater Test.

Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the PCM, C3 harness connector.
Turn ignition on, engine not running.
Measure voltage of Pin1 in the O2 Sensor harness connector.
If there is voltage, find the short.

Ignition off.
To do this test it is recommended to use Miller Special Tool #8815 to test the PCM harness. Do not probe the PCM harness connectors! You can damage them.
You could try the following, but it may damage the wires...
Measure the resistance of O2 2/2 Pin 1, to the wire that goes to PCM, C3 harness connector Pin 10. Do not probe the PCM harness connectors! You can damage them.
The resistance should be below 5.0 ohms.

Chase wires...
 
#23 ·
Thanks Scar0 'll give it a shot.

Now I'm also looking at PCMs and have been given conflicting part numbers. One of them is 5150275AB (Brand New), R5150275AB (Remanufactured) and the other is RL094149AF (also Remanufactured), would you know which one is the correct one? I'm unable to read the current part number on the existing PCM since there's a massive authorised update sticker slapped on top of it.
 
#24 ·
5150275AA is what is in the 08 parts manual I have.
Our Dodge vendor's web site shows it is superseded by 5150275AB
Not a terribly bad price either.
Give Benny a holler, (He is our Dodge parts vendor) he can look it up and price it out for you. Click here. He will need your VIN.
Great guy to deal with.
The other # I can not find at all. Is it missing some #'s?
 
#25 ·
Just another update,

I did all the tests including checking from the PCM harness - Pin 10. On paper, the C3 connector is labelled as a "Natural" colour it is in fact a white/off white colour. I used a small length of small gauge wire that was tinned on one end and probed it into the harness (exact fit) and it proved that there was no short with the wiring.

All pins on the PCM seem to be in excellent condition (clean) and had a little of electric grease or something applied on them all from factory (clear grease when I wiped with my fingers).

I've ordered a new PCM and hopefully will have it flashed by the dealership when it lands. When I plugged all the connectors back in and used my OBDII reader it showed no codes. The moment I started the vehicle and returned it to diagnostic mode on the reader, 8 additional codes appeared - all were O2 sensor related (Banks 1/1, 1/2, 2/1 and 2/2). This, together with the instant CEL appearing I assume is definitely an issue with the PCM and not a wiring or O2 sensor(s).

Once the new PCM arrives, I'll also try disassembling the old PCM and see how it goes. The company I purchased the part off charges a $125 core charge but the shipping back will more likely be close to that amount making it unfeasible to do so.